The Cuckoo in Islington has had a major revamp

Usually when you think of cuckoos, you think of avian shysters hatching in some poor unwitting bird’s nest. This Islington watering hole couldn’t be further from that image, especially since its fab makeover. Coming straight out of lockdown number three looking fresher than Gwyneth Paltrow on a juice cleanse, The Cuckoo provides Londoners with a calming, earthy-hued haven in which to relax. Whether you’re there for a swift one in the pub or staying in one of the boutique rooms upstairs, there’s plenty of opportunity to get comfy away from the bustle of nearby Holloway Road and Upper Street. 

Built in 1856, the pub was previously known as The Huntingdon Arms and was reincarnated as an Indian restaurant called The Cuckoo in 2011. It’s kept its name, but been given a new twist thanks to South African owners Sunée McKelvey and Gerard Oliver, who are also responsible for breathing new life into The Scottish Stores, a charming wood-panelled pub in King’s Cross.

Aside from the elegant décor, visitors to The Cuckoo will notice superb new wine and food menus. The former features South African rarities, including vintages from Durbanville Hills in Cape Town, while the latter offers a taste of the African continent with its biltong pizzas, ‘bunny chow’ (spiced curry served in a bread bowl) and a charcuterie board featuring droewors (‘dry sausage’ in Afrikaans). That’s not to say that McKelvey and Oliver don’t also keep it local, however, stocking freshly baked bread from Sunflour Bakery and pints from Hammerton Brewery, both of which are within walking distance. And slightly further away, from McKanna in Holborn, comes the meat for their cracking Sunday roasts.

The more discerning (or just plain keen) drinkers out there will be pleased to know The Cuckoo hosts regular wine tastings, stocks a variety of gins from Chase Distillery in Hereford and is the only joint in London selling guest beers from Kent’s Time & Tide Brewery. We highly recommend grabbing one and soaking up a few rays while savouring it in the outside seating area. Alternatively, make a night of it with a private party booking or kip in one of a handful of chic rooms. There are standard and large doubles available, as well as a family double, which has a king-size bed in one room and bunk-beds in another. Each pad has tea- and coffee-making facilities, TVs and wifi, and it’s dog-friendly to boot.

Book up early though, as The Cuckoo is a much-loved hang-out by locals. So popular is the place, in fact, that it’s been awarded Best Neighbourhood Pub in this year’s SME Awards. McKelvey and Oliver have done more here than simply redecorate an old bird, they’ve rejuvenated one of Islington’s cosiest local haunts.

The Cuckoo is located at 115 Hemingford Road, N1 1BZ. Find out more at www.thecuckoobar.com