Genesis

An upmarket vegan fast food joint may not be big news in London nowadays, but achingly hip Shoreditch spot Genesis has enough interesting creations to make it stand out from the crowd. The continent-hopping menu mixes the familiar with the new, and all of it is done well. Mac and cheese made with wholegrain kamut wheat pasta might sound a bit out-there, but it was an absolute belter. A banh mi hot dog with herby sausage was an equally successful creation, as was a plate of charred tandoori broccoli, with refreshing pomegranate seeds balancing out a very rich makhani gravy. The Korean Street Sandwich (panko-breaded aubergine in a brioche bun) was an enjoyable burger alternative. But though nicely seasoned, a bit more kimchi zing would have been welcome.

Just don’t get too carried away. A few dishes – especially desserts – are a tad on the spenny side. Eight pounds for a small chocolate brownie was a bit of a kick in the teeth, even if it was delicious. Similarly, smoothies were a wallet-crushing nine pounds, just two quid less than the (very good) cocktails. And the cheapest bottle of wine is £35. Lay off the booze, we say. Overall, though, Genesis is a fun, vibey place for grown-up fast food with a generous dollop of global flavour.