Greek Larder

Restaurants, Greek King's Cross
3 out of 5 stars
4 out of 5 stars
(13user reviews)
Greek Larder (© Debbie Jones)
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© Debbie Jones
Greek Larder (© Debbie Jones)
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© Debbie Jones
Greek Larder (© John Sturrock)
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© John Sturrock
Greek Larder (© Debbie Jones)
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Greek Larder (© Debbie Jones)
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Greek Larder (© Debbie Jones)
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Greek Larder (© John Sturrock)
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© John Sturrock
Greek Larder (© Debbie Jones)
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© Debbie Jones

A casual dining Greek restaurant from Theodore Kyriakou (founder of The Real Greek) just north of King's Cross station.

Please note, since this review was written, The Greek Larder has opened a deli section, changed its menu and now serves wine in glasses rather than tumblers. Time Out Food editors, November 2017.

Theodore Kyriakou seems to have the Midas touch. He founded The Real Greek and sold it on for expansion. Before this he did the same for the now-defunct Live Bait. And now he’s set up The Greek Larder, on a site just north of King’s Cross, around the corner from Granary Square and The Guardian offices.

It certainly looks good, with the warehouse interior evoking Greece, with its Aegean-green details and shelves lined with produce like a Greek periptero (kiosk).

Wine is served in the anodised aluminium beakers that in Greece are used for ‘krasi varelisio’ (wine from the barrel, often plonk), the glasses are tumblers. Although channelling the rustic charm of many simple Greek tavernas, this does the wine list no favours. It’s a pleasure to see so many boutique Greek wines in one place, championing indigenous grape varieties such as moschofilero, assyrtiko or agiorgitiko, but served in wide-brimmed tumblers, their aromas are lost. And those 100ml tumblers (all £3-5) add up quickly.

The meze dishes are delightful, but like the wines, a few little plates (£6 or thereabouts) can soon run up the bill. The Lamb’s tongue was a highlight, the pungent roasted meat offset by the red pepper and feta spread called htipipi. Rabbit legs were breaded and fried like chicken wings, and served with a parsnip version of skordalia, a garlicky dip.

Simple classics are pimped up. The giant white bean and tomato stew called gigantes is served as a dollop topped by an artichoke heart and neat triangle of sharp feta. Shaved ribbons of fennel garnished a few dishes, including a slice of filo pie with tzatsiki. Even desserts showed invention, with strained Greek coffee poured over mastic-flavoured ice cream, like an Italian affogato.

Kyriakou seems to have systematised the menu so it can be assembled with relatively little skill, or even masterminded from a central kitchen. Expect to see a branch of The Greek Larder on a high street near you soon.

By: Guy Dimond

Posted:

Venue name: Greek Larder
Contact:
Address: 1 York Way
King’s Cross
London
N1C 4AS
Opening hours: 8am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10.30pm Sat; 11am-5pm Sun.
Transport: Tube: King's Cross
Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £75.
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Average User Rating

3.8 / 5

Rating Breakdown

  • 5 star:1
  • 4 star:9
  • 3 star:3
  • 2 star:0
  • 1 star:0
LiveReviews|13
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1 of 1 found helpful
Tastemaker

I was very impressed with the Greek Larder which offers traditional recipes with a twist and introduces lots of traditional products - usually not found outside of Greece , like nouboulo cured ham, lots of cheeses like arseniko naxou. The great news is one can buy lots of greek cheeses ( very hard to find in London) , plus wines at affordable prices and an impressive variety of greek artisan beers like Septem, Nissos etc- to take home too! Now, I went with another 5 friends (one of which is a chef himself and told me he would give the place 5 stars) , among them 3 Greeks (myself included) so we had a variety of dishes. I had the Sunday *roast* menu for 25 pounds : one starter, one main and one dessert and decided to get the smoked eel and roasted peppers ( the eel portion was miniscule :( ) , the sea bass with kale and roast potatoes was very very tasty and then I had Greek cheeses with quince paste ( kydonopasto) and finished with a greek coffee . I also loved the shrimps, the smoked aubergine salad with sausages, the pastourma dish but the most amazing dish I would go back for was the fava (yellow split peas) puree with grilled octopus. The staff were very friendly and accommodating and the venue is pretty close to Kings X ( across from King's Place) and very bright with big windows and lots of Greek products all around. I'm definitely going again as they also do some live music Friday nights I think..


tastemaker

Dolmadakia or dolmades take me back to my school days and seeing them in my friend's lunchbox - they’re deliciously simple and definitely a parcel of nostalgia for me.

What we had: 

* Marinated pork neck souvlaki with tomato sauce, tzatziki, cos lettuce and chips

* Dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves) with smoked eel

* Horta (seasonal wilted greens) with feta

The pork neck was very tender, though I felt that there could have been more vegetable ingredients in the souvlaki to fill it out a bit. The fries were great - crispy and fragrant. The dolmadakia was a bit on the pricey side, but were delicious with the smoked eel and something I would be getting again. The horta with feta was a bit of a non-event and I think if you’re looking for vegetables, go with a salad option instead as a side. Service here is okay, though a little slow to get their attention. Overall not a bad spot for a team lunch.


Tip: portions are on the smaller side, so perhaps get a few small plates, sides  or a salad to share


Good For: large groups, business lunch/ dinner, casual lunch/ dinner

Tastemaker

This is basically a Greek take on Wahaca concept. As Thomasina Miers has done with Mexican food, and Alan Yau before her with Asian, the owners took the concept of Greek Street food, brushed it up and made it trendy and contemporary, but in the process lost that feeling of home cooking. It’s a fun space that is great for big groups. We were 12 people sharing starters and main courses, drinking Greek wine and polishing it all off with Metaxa. Inexplicably, the typical mezes (hummus, taramasalata, tzaziki and such) were quite mediocre. I consistently get better hummus at my local M&S. But the main courses were good. In particular, fish of the day, pan fried to crispness on the bottom but melt in your mouth on the outside, was really really good.

They also, as the ‘larder’ part of the name suggests, stock a whole lot of a Greek specialties and cupboard staples and carry a selection of Greek wines - most definitely  the biggest I’ve seen outside a specialty wine shop (and that includes Greek restaurants in Greece).

Still, will only return if in the neighbourhood and need a large table. Better places to eat in Granary Square.


Tastemaker

Lovely and relaxed place for a different weekend brunch - the staff is friendly and the food great. It's a nice, quiet spot away from the buzzing Granary Square and you can wander around the canal after.  

tastemaker

Went there with a group of friends. We all had the worker's lunch menu (£13 for 3 meze dishes). I think the level of happiness was kind of mixed. Without realising one of my friends ended up with a plate of chips; a dollop of taramasalata and a small salad, which, I guess is kind of a lot for £13. But most of us had a great meal. I had a wrap with pork neck as well as bakaliaro skodalia - they were super tasty!
The decor was super cute too. Great honest spot for an area like Kings Cross!

tastemaker

I really enjoyed my time at Greek Lader. I didn't think they had an extensive menu, however all the food we ordered was generous and so tasty. I can personally recommend the lamb chops! They have a good ambience, and nice location in Kings Cross.

Tastemaker

Delicious food for a business prix fix. My colleagues and I each selected the £20 three course option, which includes two starters and a main. The veg options are numerous which is why I selected this place and I was not disappointed. I chose the fava, htipi and Horta starter with the saganaki cheese and hummus and a beetroot salad, with pita bread. The portions were quite large and my food was delicious! Salty, creamy and the perfect textures all around. You can taste the quality olive oil as well. I would definitely return for a business event; for my personal wallet a bit too expensive!

Tastemaker

If you’re tired of your average eggs and bacon brunch, try mixing it up with some fried cheese, tzatsiki, and stuffed vine leaves courtesy of The Greek Larder. It’s not going to blow you away but it’s a decent brunch in nice surroundings just off Granary Square.

tastemaker

Certainly sticks out from the crowd in places to eat centrally. And your money goes fat!


The food was delicious and full of flavor, the surroundings and atmosphere were pleasant, spacious with plenty of room between the tables. The staff were friendly with just the right amount of attention. The portions are not large, but big enough to be filling. As for price, we had one entree (potted chicken caper salad - big enough to share), extra flat bread, two mains, two desserts, a bottle of wine, one Greek coffee, and that came to £79 plus tip. It was worth it. All in all it ticks every box!

Tastemaker

Came here on a punt because, as is now very common in Kings Cross, the other places we wanted to go to had no tables and/or the wait was way too long given the time of evening. I am actually very glad we did!


We had a pitcher of Greek Sangria, which was bursting with fruit and had a lovely, crisp taste to it. The basil was a lovely touch. 


We started with the octopus and the beef rissoles with beans. Oh and bread. Bread that tasted like fried dough. Heavenly. Interestingly, although the beef was wonderfully moist and flavourful, I could not get over the beans! Perfectly cooked (not too soggy) and just so perfect spice wise. The octopus was a bit tough to cut with a butter knife, but oh so meaty and delicious, It paired wonderfully with the tahini dip. NOM NOM NOM.


For my main I had the Kavouromakaronada which was a bit too fishy tasting for me, but I think that was more the samphire adding itself a bit too much to the dish. I ate it and it pleased me once I got over it. 


Finished off with a baklava and ice cream. It was delicious but oh how i wished the baklava was warmed up!!


Great addition to the area and just far away enough from Granary Square to miss the heaving crowds. 


I have already been here twice. I'm a big fan of the decor - it is extremely spacious/light colours and instantly puts you in a good mood. Staff members are passionate, humorous and have great personalities. The food is surprising, interesting and most importantly delicious. I would certainly recommend this place for anyone looking for good sharing plates, good wine, and a nice evening to catch up with their friends.


Actually the second time I have been and this was an even better evening. I had a wide selection of starters including the octopus & fava with yellow split and pea purée. All were presented and cooked to perfection. Strongly recommended!


Tastemaker

Great Greek food. My friend and I went for dinner however we didn't have any of the mains as quite expensive and only a few I fancied. We went for meze - 6 dishes to shared including fava dip, grilled bread, souvlaki, sausage, vine leaves and saganaki. All of it was delicious so would highly recommend. Also got an aperitif of cucumber, mint and ouzo for £3 which was nice and we shared a bottle of house wine. Finally finished with a fig cheesecake (bit cheesy) and my friend had some cheese and bread! In all for 2 with tip it came to £75 which is quite pricey but food was good, filling and service was good. Would recommend however location isn't great, hidden away behind Kings Cross on a busy road with roadworks.