A casual dining Greek restaurant from Theodore Kyriakou (founder of The Real Greek) just north of King's Cross station.
Please note, since this review was written, The Greek Larder has opened a deli section, changed its menu and now serves wine in glasses rather than tumblers. Time Out Food editors, November 2017.
Theodore Kyriakou seems to have the Midas touch. He founded The Real Greek and sold it on for expansion. Before this he did the same for the now-defunct Live Bait. And now he’s set up The Greek Larder, on a site just north of King’s Cross, around the corner from Granary Square and The Guardian offices.
It certainly looks good, with the warehouse interior evoking Greece, with its Aegean-green details and shelves lined with produce like a Greek periptero (kiosk).
Wine is served in the anodised aluminium beakers that in Greece are used for ‘krasi varelisio’ (wine from the barrel, often plonk), the glasses are tumblers. Although channelling the rustic charm of many simple Greek tavernas, this does the wine list no favours. It’s a pleasure to see so many boutique Greek wines in one place, championing indigenous grape varieties such as moschofilero, assyrtiko or agiorgitiko, but served in wide-brimmed tumblers, their aromas are lost. And those 100ml tumblers (all £3-5) add up quickly.
The meze dishes are delightful, but like the wines, a few little plates (£6 or thereabouts) can soon run up the bill. The Lamb’s tongue was a highlight, the pungent roasted meat offset by the red pepper and feta spread called htipipi. Rabbit legs were breaded and fried like chicken wings, and served with a parsnip version of skordalia, a garlicky dip.
Simple classics are pimped up. The giant white bean and tomato stew called gigantes is served as a dollop topped by an artichoke heart and neat triangle of sharp feta. Shaved ribbons of fennel garnished a few dishes, including a slice of filo pie with tzatsiki. Even desserts showed invention, with strained Greek coffee poured over mastic-flavoured ice cream, like an Italian affogato.
Kyriakou seems to have systematised the menu so it can be assembled with relatively little skill, or even masterminded from a central kitchen. Expect to see a branch of The Greek Larder on a high street near you soon.
|Venue name:||Greek Larder|
1 York Way
|Opening hours:||8am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10.30pm Sat; 11am-5pm Sun.|
|Transport:||Tube: King's Cross|
|Price:||Meal for two with wine and service: around £75.|
|Do you own this business?|
Average User Rating
3.8 / 5
- 5 star:1
- 4 star:9
- 3 star:3
- 2 star:0
- 1 star:0
I have already been here twice. I'm a big fan of the decor - it is extremely spacious/light colours and instantly puts you in a good mood. Staff members are passionate, humorous and have great personalities. The food is surprising, interesting and most importantly delicious. I would certainly recommend this place for anyone looking for good sharing plates, good wine, and a nice evening to catch up with their friends.
Actually the second time I have been and this was an even better evening. I had a wide selection of starters including the octopus & fava with yellow split and pea purée. All were presented and cooked to perfection. Strongly recommended!
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