Meet the London chefs perfecting the art of noodles

Food is all about happiness – at least that’s the motto for Jiaxing Xiao, founder of YEYE’s Noodle & Dumpling. Inspired by the bowls of noodles his father used to create for him, Xiao uses his menu as a way of reconnecting him with the memories of his past, to allow his dad to ‘be with him for life’.

Creating happiness isn’t just about the food on the menu though. Customer satisfaction is key, and Xiao’s always more than happy to change, re-do or even replace a dish if his customer isn’t 100% happy. It’s simple really: “The best ingredients and the best flavours equal happiness,” he says with a smile. 

In a nutshell: Time-honoured classics given bold new flavours in warming bowls of noodles and dumplings. 

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Hoko head chef Hilda Leung works closely with Hoko co-founders Nicole Ma and her husband Ryan. Former florist Nicole didn’t arrive in London from Hong Kong with plans to found a restaurant here. In fact, it wasn’t until she met her Ryan during a working holiday to the city that the idea germinated. 

Then, during the summer of 2020, the pair launched Hoko, a Hong Kong-style cafe in the heart of Shoreditch's iconic Brick Lane specialising in milk tea. “The space itself was already well-designed with a diner feel, so it really worked in terms of ambience,” Nicole explains. French toast, Hong Kong style, was soon added to the menu – and the rest was history. 

Today, Hoko has grown, with a pop-up in Seven Dials Market specialising in Hong Kong-style wonton noodles – a total challenge for the Hoko team. “It was a complete new menu and a complete new team which we put together in just 10 days!” Nicole laughs.

In a nutshell: Hong Kong-style noodles and milk tea.

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“Food has always been a big part of my life,” explains Gourmet Sushi founder Chef Nuri, “I’m fascinated by how food brings people together and how much joy a great meal can create.” It’s no surprise then, that Nuri went on to found Gourmet Sushi back in 2016, the culmination of years of studying the art of Japanese cuisine in kitchens around the capital. 

These days, with a number of outposts around London, Nuri and team are focused on creating those great meals for every customer who orders from them. “We combine traditional Japanese sushi techniques with creative, modern flavours,” Nuri explains, “I want to make sushi accessible for a really wider audience. The inspiration came – and remains – wanting to create something that respects tradition while feeling contemporary.”

In a nutshell: Fresh ingredients, bold flavours and balanced textures in signature rolls.

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Arriving in London in 1979, Mr Taro nourished a 'quiet dream to share authentic Japanese food' with Londoners. Cut to 1999, and he opened the doors to the very first brand of his restaurant of Taro on Brewer Street. His idea was simple “to create a Taishü Shokodǒ”, AKA an “everyday dining room” in the centre of London, serving up the kinds of dishes you would find in local, family-run spots across Japan. It’s safe to say the concept was a hit with city-dwellers, and nearly three decades later, Mr Taro is about to open his 10th location in Crystal Palace, with over 200 team members helping him to deliver his vision.

'I believe deeply in omotenashi' he explains, 'It's a kind of wholehearted Japanese hospitality. It means caring sincerely for guests without expecting anything in return.' And what could be more delicious than that? 

In a nutshell: Umami flavours in traditional ramen bowls and delicate artistry in freshly prepared sushi.

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Growing up, Shoryu founder Kanji San spent many happy hours “fishing in the local river” of his hometown Yame City, Fukuoka, before returning home to meals lovingly prepared by his mother. From an early age he was, of course, completely enthralled by food, eventually shaping itself into a professional path he knew he wanted to follow.

In 2012, he opened Shoryu in London alongside his co-founder Tak Tokumine, specialising in authentic tonkotsu ramen and gaining him his title of the ‘Ramen Boss’.

"We were among the first to bring it to the UK,” San recalls fondly, “Growth happened very fast. Between 2012 and 2016, we opened 10 restaurants!” Today, Shoryu is known for its traditional Hakata-style tonkotsu ramen with simple but balanced toppings.

In a nutshell: Tonkotsu ramen, steamed buns and Japanese-inspired cocktails.

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A “winding path through a farmers market with delicious stops along the way”. That’s how Xi'an BiangBiang Noodles’ head chef Guo describes his journey from his grandmother’s kitchen through to leading the team behind one of London’s most successful noodle shops.

He sees food as a “language of love, a way to tell a story, and a powerful connector of people.” It’s easy to see that kind of passion executed in the menus of the Xi’an BiangBiang Noodles restaurants around the capital with traditional Shaanxi-style hand-pulled noodles all packing loads of flavour.

“I find inspiration in the 'comes directly from the culinary traditions of Xi'an,” Gua explains, “Every dish we serve is a celebration of the bold, hearty and rustic flavours found in the area’s street food.”

In a nutshell: Oodles of noodles, as you’d expect, all hand-pulled.

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Growing up and attending culinary school in Poland, Marcin Chanek was always “curious about flavour, about culture, and about how great food can bring people together”. Unsurprisingly, then, when the opportunity came to head up the kitchen at Marugame shortly after it first opened in London, the chef jumped at the chance to put his almost-20 years of experience to good use.

“It’s been one of the most exciting chapters of my career,” Marcin explains, “I’ve always admired Japanese culture and cuisine, but at that stage, udon craftsmanship was completely new to me. That challenge inspired me. I travelled to Japan several times, spending time with experienced udon masters to truly understand the precision and discipline behind authentic Sanuki udon.”

The dedication to this new craft paid off. These days, every dish Marugame serves up – including their signature Japanese Sanuki udon – prioritises “simplicity elevated through precisions,” he says, “It’s not about overcomplicating dishes; it’s about balance. Texture, temperature, umami, freshness.”

In a nutshell: Udon noodles, flavour-filled tempura and homemade broths.

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The inspiration behind Chew Fun – the restaurant co-founded by Don Chen back in 2019 – was simple: to bring a taste of the Guangxi region to London. “We went all the way to the city of Gullin [in Southern China] to research the perfect rice noodles, which are eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner there” Chen says, “We visited around 20 different restaurants before we finally found the recipe.”

Back in London, the team at Chew Fun offer customers a menu of hearty, authentic Southern Chinese rice noodle dishes, packed with memorable flavours. 

In a nutshell: Authentic and comforting Chinese fare – broths, meats, everything in between. 

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