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Review
Highland Park says goodbye to Otoño’s Spanish tapas and hello to chef Debbie Lee’s take on pojangmachas—known for their street food and low ABV Korean drinks. After searching for years, Lee has finally found a home for her pop-up on the increasingly buzzy Figueroa Street. The twist? The drinks outshine the food.
The vibe: Despite the glow of a few neon signs, the energy is subdued, making for easy conversation. The dining room’s moodier atmosphere is offset by the brighter and more social bar area, accented by a whimsical mural. Being able to take in a game at the bar, an increasing rarity in this stretch of Figueroa, may give Lee the time to adjust the food menu.
The food: Small portions and underwhelming dishes (possibly skewing to the palate of the area’s changing demographics) dominate the menu, but the bar bites and wagyu bone marrow corn cheese best complement the scene-stealing drinks program.
The drink: Be prepared to want every cocktail. From the buttery and deep Corn Quartet to the seasonal martini riff, Radish to Riches (essentially a boozy dongchimi), you’ll be sharing sips with your friends all night. A solid but modest selection of wine, soju, Asian beers, and non-alcoholic drinks rounds out the adventurous menu.
Time Out tip: Yi Cha is one of the few places you can find makgeolli outside of select Ktown establishments or the San Gabriel Valley. The shareable fermented beverage is a delicate digestif, served here in colorful fish cups.
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