Next week the ancient town of Jaffa, Israel, meets Los Angeles with the opening of Jaffa, a modern-Californian and Middle Eastern restaurant along West Third. Officially launching January 31 in the former home of Blue Plate Oysterette, the sunny spot takes its name and culinary cues from the small port town, which eventually became part of Tel Aviv.
The menu can be hearty, offering dishes such as lamb maftoul (Palestinian couscous) with figs, cilantro and lemon, but lighter fare can be found in albacore crudo with fennel and Fresno chili, or the slaw-style salad with shredded Brussels sprouts, walnuts, feta and a date vinaigrette. Many dishes even skew vegetarian or vegan, like the colorful avocado hummus topped with couscous and roasted carrots, or charred eggplant with pistachio, date syrup and pomegranate. (See also: vegan desserts, including a rich chocolate tart made with coconut milk.) Carb lovers can add an order of kubaneh, a Yemenite Jewish bread which is baked for hours, its rich rolls pulling apart easily for dipping in the accompanying red, tomato-based dipper and the spicy, green zhug.
“I was very fortunate to have the exciting opportunity to spend some time in [Israel], and learn all about the culture and cuisine,” says chef Anne Conness, whom you might recognize from El Segundo’s Sausal. “I fell absolutely in love, and felt that it would be a perfect fit in Los Angeles because of their passion in using lots of fresh produce, as well as their thoughtful approach towards creating healthful preparations.”
Photograph: Courtesy Jaffa/Nicole Iizuka
Gone is Oysterette’s bright blue-and-white palette, making room for a softer blend of beige tones with blue highlights in the center bar. The front windows open out to the patio, creating an airy feel and a setting somewhat obfuscated from the busy street’s bustle by a few well-placed ferns. Conness and Sausal partner Nancy Vrankovic created a space that’s comfortable and romantic by night, with a few well-worn touches providing the illusion that the restaurant’s always been there.
Aly Iwamoto, formerly of the Varnish, heads up a bar program that features a non-alcoholic twist on an old-fashioned (titled the New Fashioned, naturally); a magenta pomegranate-and-beet cocktail with egg white; and her take on a gin martini, with hints of rosemary and lemon. The bar is also inclined to pour shots of Arak, a strong, anise-flavored spirit, with which you’d be wise to exercise a little caution.
Take a peek at what you’ll be able to find at Jaffa beginning next Wednesday, then stop by for yourself.
Jaffa launches with dinner service on January 31 at 8048 W 3rd St, with lunch service to follow on February 5, and brunch to begin February 17. Full operating hours will see Jaffa open from 11am-9:30pm on Sunday, 11am to 10:30pm Monday to Thursday, and 11am to 11:30pm Friday and Saturday.