Michelin has announced its starred California restaurants for 2023 from an awards ceremony in Oakland, including one new addition in the Los Angeles area: Long Beach’s Heritage. Founded in 2020 and run by siblings Philip and Lauren Pretty, the multi-course tasting menu operates inside a converted Craftsman house and sources produce from its nearby namesake urban farm. Within Southern California, Heritage is also joined by Oceanside’s Valle, an upscale Mexican restaurant inside the Mission Pacific Hotel.
In total, California gained six new one-star restaurants, four of which are in Northern California: Nari and Aphotic in San Francisco, Chez Noir in Carmel-by-the-Sea and Auro in Calistoga. Southern California’s two measly additions are a far cry from the 2022 guide, released seven months ago, which included eight new stars in L.A. plus a new star at Caruso’s in Montecito and a third star for San Diego’s Addison—the only place in the region to be given Michelin’s highest honor.
Half a year and some change later, Michelin has already yanked its star designation from Culver City’s Hatchet Hall, as well as Phenakite, Minh Phan’s currently shuttered tasting series. Hollywood’s Providence, which retained its two Michelin stars, also earned a Green Star, a newer designation recognizing industry-leading sustainability practices. The guide also announced four special awards, including an Exceptional Cocktails Award for Kato’s Austin Hennelly (whose restaurant also retained its star). All other L.A. restaurants retained their current stars.
RECOMMENDED: See all 25 of L.A.’s Michelin star restaurants, updated for 2023
Arguably the world’s most famous dining guide (as well as a multinational French tire company), Michelin decides what it considers worth visiting by sending anonymous inspectors all over a given city, state, region or country. One star equals “a very good restaurant in its category,” while two stars signals “excellent cuisine, worth a detour.” A three-star rating indicates “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.”
In North America, the guide’s overall bias towards Japanese omakase and French fine-dining restaurants is well-known, though it also includes a variety of unstarred restaurants in terms of cuisine and price point within each edition of the guide. A second more budget-friendly category, Bib Gourmand, expanded to include four new L.A. area additions last week.
Among veterans of the global fine-dining circuit, chefs and diners alike, the international prestige of a Michelin star is undeniable, even as the Big Red Book’s bias is crystal-clear: ultra-fancy, ultra-expensive restaurants that largely fail to capture the way most Angelenos actually eat.