The city of Commerce is aptly named for its abundance of warehouses, loading docks and companies that delve into the world of, well, commerce. And these warehouses and companies are driven by people, and the people have to eat, man. So where to? There’s not a lot around here in the way of original cuisine, unless you’re particularly skilled at customizing a Wendy’s burger, but Aqui es Texcoco has gained a steady and committed following with their lamb barbacoa-focused menu. The no-frills restaurant distills lamb into its finest parts—with mixed results, to be sure, but always with care and a cheery disposition channeled through the most kind and helpful servers.
To get a glimpse of how Aqui strives to honor lamb at its fullest, look no further than the lamb broth which arrives alongside most entrèes. Is there any way to describe this soup other than pastoral? It smells as fresh as a barn, which doesn’t sound altogether enticing but it most definitely is. It would be great if this pure, of-the-earth flavor translated into more of the meat dishes as well, but it can be hit or miss: a plate of shredded lamb to be wrapped in tortillas is tender, but a larger lamb gyros plate is underseasoned and bland. There is fried quail here, too, and the crispy skin and tender meat resembles your favorite plate of wings.
One of the best parts of Aqui is the unique Mexican beer they have to offer, like Cerveza Cucapa or Los Muertos Brewing (the brightly colored bottle packaging is enough to win you over). Try a bottle or two before delving into the flan—because what is a Mexican meal without flan? Thankfully, Aqui makes a great one, creamy and smooth and a great reward for making it out to Commerce.