Bad Roman

What is it: A wildly popular and TikTok-able New York transplant that leans heavily into maximalism, psychedelic snake decor and boozy beverages.  

Why we love it: Horace gave us carpe diem, and Ancient Romans liked to turn a feast into a little reflection on mortality, sometimes with the help of a memento mori in the form of a skeleton. Bad Roman swaps the skeletons for snakes, but the message is the same: You only live once. Walking by the Beverly Hills facade, a neon slithering serpent beckons you inside, where, well, you’ll encounter many more serpents: in the walls, on doors, in painted panels. The space is mesmerizing and packed to the gills regardless of the day or time. So, order a round. You might come here thinking you won’t drink, but you’ll quickly reconsider once you clock the pepperoncini martini. Martini purists might find it offensive, but if you love pepperoncini, you’ll be delighted. Surprisingly, the tequila granita proves boozier than the martini. It somehow feels like a snow cone, if a snow cone were made of habanero shaved ice and Calabrian honey with loads of Dobel Diamante Cristalino. Line your stomach accordingly. We recommend the roasted garlic babka, the paccheri amatriciana (ask for the off-menu Baked-n-Burnt version, with extra cheese and extra time in the oven), and the jumbo asparagus. There’s an entire off-menu menu, but these three dishes plus dessert are a surefire way to have the most fun at Bad Roman (for a party of two). If you’re only getting one dessert, make it the blood orange sorbet with whipped zabaglione. Actually, get the tiramisu ice cream cake too. Come on, live a little. You’re going to die either way.  

Time Out tip: Skip the filet mignon meatballs. L.A. is a town with many great balls, and these sadly don’t measure up.