Barrique

It’s shocking that in a place like Venice Beach—L.A.'s enclave for new-age hippies and tech bros alike—a fantastic restaurant could fly under the radar for 17 years. But Venice is a collection of paradoxes. And right smack in the middle, a street away from the hullabaloo of Abbot Kinney, is an Italian breath of fresh air that is zero hype and one-hundred percent authentic. 

Enter Barrique, a modest two-story yellow house, which, when walking by during the day in the absence of a valet and a branded welcome mat, you might look up on Zillow—only to discover it is a restaurant. Its facade says a lot: inviting yet unassuming, rustic yet bold, unpretentious yet utterly charming. Simply put, Barrique is a pantydropper and chef-owner Antonio Murè is an artist. 

If the name Antonio Murè rings a bell, it’s because he was the chef of La Botte, which earned a Michelin star and shuttered in 2014. Murè has opened many restaurants, but none hold as special a place in his heart as Barrique. Italian hospitality is the name of the game here. Stroll in on a slower, wintery Wednesday night and Murè will likely welcome you at the foyer-slash-host stand. The first floor consists mostly of the kitchen (and restroom). Head up the hobbit-like stairs to what might just be the most romantic dining room in Los Angeles. The room hums with Italian accents under a low-angled ceiling lit in a way that evokes a 17th-century castle. It’s cozy but not cramped, and the generous sound paneling makes the space easy on the ears.

Murè climbs up and down the stairs with the agility of a cat, personally delivering dishes and catching up with regulars who've been coming here since day one. It's why he can't take a handful of his OG items like his tagliolini rossi off the menu. Take one bite of the housemade red beet tagliolini with marsala quail ragù in a taleggio fondue or the cacao tagliatelle with wild boar ragù (braised three days in amarone) and you'll understand. Other Barrique classics include pan-seared scallops in parmesan fondue with shaved truffle; Sicilian-style tuna tartare with capers, red onions, and caramelized balsamic; grilled branzino with bell pepper sauce for the spring (summer will bring a Maui onion iteration); and duck breast cooked to a perfect medium rare and slightly smoked, resulting in crispy skin, served alongside carrots and caramelized onions. Newer dishes and specials are just as thoughtful—an earthy, cream-less rabbit ragù pappardelle with prunes and porcini mushrooms was inspired by an American Thanksgiving Murè got invited to, where he was served turkey with prunes. A golden beet caponata topped with stracciatella burrata is chock full of spring flavors. Don't let Murè catch you taking photos of the food, or you'll get serious nonno vibes when he urges you to eat it before it gets cold. Dessert is no afterthought, either—it's a tough choice between a tonka bean panna cotta, a chocolate mousse trio atop a hazelnut crisp, and a vanilla cream custard layered with filo dough. All are excellent.

There are no cocktails, but you won’t miss them in the slightest. Besides, Murè will be the first to tell you pasta should be eaten with wine, which is mostly Italian and French here.

In the summer months, the outdoor terrace with succulents and candlelight is just as charming as the indoors. If you bring a date and can’t close, it might be time for some reflection.