Beethoven Market

If the name Beethoven Market rings a bell, it’s because before becoming Mar Vista’s most talked-about neighborhood restaurant, it was a local grocer under the same moniker. Mar Vista resident and restaurateur Jeremy Adler (who is also a partner at Cobi’s in Santa Monica) bought the space and transformed it into the kind of place he’d want to be able to walk to a few times a week for a meal. That’s exactly what Beethoven Market is—a casual Cal-Italian restaurant that you and your wallet never tire of.

The vibe: A stunning wraparound bar grounds the modern-yet-rustic indoor space and is the energetic fulcrum—though Beethoven Market is currently in the process of reinstating its liquor license, so the bar looks a bit naked without bottles adorning the glass shelves. Outdoors features a different centerpiece: a 50-year-old olive tree. Heat lamps make it a suitable space year-round in a part of town that often runs cooler thanks to the marine layer. Lemon trees and greenery ensconce the patio, and seating is comfortable and plentiful. It’s dog-friendly, too. You’ll encounter everything here from a group of UCLA students on a girls' night out to three generations of family to first-daters demurring over the last chicken-stuffed olive. 

The food: About those chicken-stuffed olives… they’re tastefully fried and you need them (listed on the menu as olive ascolana). Focaccia with whipped ricotta and avocado tree honey is another non-negotiable. From there, there are many ways to enjoy Beethoven Market, be it perfectly al dente pastas (I loved the duck ragu pappardelle), pizza (made with dough fermented for three days), and mains covering the protein spectrum but unlike what you’ve tasted before (ahem, pork collar with burnt cherries and grilled treviso). Whichever path you take, round it out with the panzanella salad for a fresh, bright pop. For lunch, the salad section is heftier and you can still order most of the less involved pizzas, pastas, and mains, plus all-day breakfast items like lemon ricotta pancakes and some lunch-only contenders like bucatini all’amatriciana and a pizza foldy sandwich thingy stacked with ricotta, pistachio pesto, arugula and mortadella. Everyone raves about the tableside tiramisu for dessert—tableside as in a server spoons a giant serving from a tray right onto your plate. 

The drink: Fingers crossed that Beethoven Market’s liquor license gets reinstated very soon. In the meantime, however, they’re pouring non-alcoholic wines and mixing up zero-proof cocktails. The latter fills the void best, specifically the Vista Verde with Pentire Adrift, cucumber-celery-poblano green juice, yuzu, and agave. 

Time Out tip: First-timers who want a complete taste of the menu can opt for Beethoven’s Classics family-style menu ($53 per person).