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If you drove through Big Sur before Big Sur Bakery burned down in May 2024, chances are its iconic sign is etched in your mind’s eye. That’s what made me take notice as I drove past Big Sur Grill in Santa Monica while it was under construction. There was no way that font was an accident, and sure enough, the restaurant comes from Phillip Wojtowicz, one of the chefs behind the legendary bakery, hence the name. His menu draws largely on California’s Central Coast, with a focus on seasonal ingredients and wood-fire cooking. Think seared halloumi crowned with dates, honey, lemon and salt; a Big Sur salad showcasing the best greens Cali has to offer; and Lily’s roasted half chicken in garlic gravy. It wouldn’t be an L.A. restaurant without a crudo or two, and Big Sur Grill provides. The rest of the lineup is fairly straightforward: split pea soup, branzino and the usual meaty suspects, including filet, New York strip, short rib and lamb chops. As for the vibe, it’s a mixed bag. On one visit, a trio of high-powered entertainment lawyers discussed their clients’ box office hits next to a Gen Z birthday party, complete with balloons and flower arrangements. Which is to say, Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Big Sur anymore. But there may be a little more Big Sur on the way: word on the street is a daytime café with almond croissants and other pastries is in the works, and that might be as close as we’ll ever get to Big Sur Bakery again.