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Michael Mina’s Cal Mare gives us the first taste of the Beverly Center’s massive dining overhaul, and it’s one to savor. Riding L.A.’s en-vogue wave of regional Italian food, Cal Mare focuses on Italy’s coastal cuisine with crudo, caviar-topped zeppole, handmade pastas, brick-oven pizzas, pasture-raised meats and whole-roasted fish. To sample it adequately requires a bit of a splurge, but hey, it’s cheaper than a flight to Sicily.