Cosetta

Italians have it all figured out. Aperitivo. Bread. Salad. Wine. Pasta. Pizza. Digestivo.

It's a glorious way to live. Which is why Los Angeles native Zach Pollock switched from pursuing a career in architecture to a life of cooking after studying abroad in Florence (he was enrolled at Brown). And we're so glad he did. It gave Angelenos places like Sotto, Alimento, Cosa Buona, and now Cosetta—a family-friendly neighborhood joint with perfectly executed pizza, too-easy-to-drink cocktails, and some of the best alfresco seating in Santa Monica.

It’s worth mentioning that Cosetta is a departure from Pollock’s previous establishments, though some of his greatest hits have come along for the ride, namely the legendary chicken liver all’Alimento with seasonal mostarda (pear on my visit) and Cosa Buona’s NY chicken wings alla buffalo that are still thrice-cooked with Zach’s red hot sauce and paired with gorgonzola dip. Of course, his signature leopard-spotted, airy pizza crust has made the trip to the Westside, too—but beyond that, this is new territory. 

The vibe: The 50-person dining room blends seamlessly with the 100-person lush patio, complete with a fire pit. Designed by Studio UNLTD (the team behind Bavel and Bestia), the unified space is airy and bright. Hot take: the bar, marked by a Dalí-esque array of arches, has the best—and most comfortable and kid-free—seats in the house. Especially the lower corner, where you can still see the entire dining room and out into the patio.

The food: Cosetta's Cal-Italian menu is vast and approachable. The cleverly named "panetc…" section covers bread with accompaniments—fava bean hummus, Cantabrian anchovies, Pollock's revered chicken liver, etc. Scallops with Sicilian ponzu and marcona almonds are the highlight of the raw bar. A smoked, glazed, and grilled yellowtail collar typically sells out before 7pm. Large pasta shells are doused in vodka arrabbiata, finished in the pizza oven for a nice char and dolloped with burrata—it’s an old-school dish that feels totally modern. The star of the menu is the porcini-rubbed wagyu tri-tip, wood-fired to a perfect medium rare and served sliced—add a salad, small plate, and pizza, and it’s a complete meal for three people. Speaking of pizza, Pollock's putting uni butter, Spanish clam conserva, and lemon slices on a pie. Red-sauce purists can delight in classics like margherita, Hawaiian with house-smoked coppa, or veg supreme (though it loses some magic on the reheat, so if you're debating another slice vs. leftovers, opt for the slice). Keeping in line with its family-oriented approach, kid-friendly items are elevated with adult flavors—smoked mozzarella sticks, lasagna with bone marrow bolognese, and chicken milanese with a Thai twist (fish sauce and chili). The only thing I haven't cared for is the farro and white bean soup—personally, I wouldn’t add another starch to an already starchy soup. For dolci, a Basque-ish cheesecake with semolina streusel and sour cherries is the clear winner.

The drink: Brian Summers is the man behind Cosetta's bar program. His mentor was Sam Ross of Milk & Honey (creator of the penicillin cocktail), and Summers is having a lot of fun here—drawing from decades of experience and an apothecary of herbs and spices to make from-scratch amaro, aperitivo, and limoncello. Negroni lovers will delight in the cannoli negroni, which mixes cocoa nibs and ricotta wash with Campari, gin, and sweet vermouth, garnished with pistachio crumble and orange peel. Equally exciting are Summers' zero-proof concoctions, built to be both functional and conversation starters. The conneti (Italian for connection) pairs Fiji kava (a heart-opener) with cinnamon, hibiscus, pineapple, and lime. He's also paying respect to his mentor with the calma—a fully herbal take on the penicillin with chamomile, ashwagandha, valerian root, manuka honey, and lemon. It's a delightful NA digestif that'll down-regulate the nervous system and help you sleep. And if you need the opposite, the energizza uses rhodiola rosea, a stimulant often used for athletic performance. Sip slowly—there's a limit of two per person.

Time Out tip: Coming soon is an aperitivo hour (4–5pm) and digestivo hour (9–10pm) that will expand upon Summers' current offerings and feature a bevvy of bevvies in line with Italian tradition.