Gjusta

Gjusta has lived many lives since opening in 2014. The Venice bakery-deli hybrid—conceptualized by the same team behind neighborhood sibling Gjelina—is a hyper-local mainstay for those who live a block away (guilty), a mandatory pitstop for non-Westsiders finding themselves anywhere in the vicinity, and a bucket-list destination for out-of-towners. I’ve run (wholly unprompted) into East Coast friends on a layover. Once upon a time, Gjusta served dinner, but it has since found its sweet spot as a pure daytime operation. Because there are fewer hours in the day to house the masses, the shop relies on a ticket-number system reminiscent of a European supermarket or an old-school New York deli. Sure, the line can get unruly at times, and patrons occasionally bicker over numbers, but the unflappable staff manages to deftly de-escalate and make the hangry happy.

The menu is famously fluid. For a while, the exquisitely cooked chili or herb (my pick) rubbed whole rotisserie chicken—served with crispy potatoes, wild arugula, and a trio of vibrant sauces: tzatziki, harissa, and chimichurri—mysteriously disappeared without explanation. It has thankfully returned and makes for a stellar group meal or a premium to-go situation for anyone looking to skip meal prep. The salmon rice bowl goes through a slightly different iteration every year, with some seasons proving stronger than others, and while the beloved chopped salad was recently 86’d, we’re shamelessly hoping it will make a heroic comeback.

These quibbles are easy to forgive when there are endless reasons to keep returning. Not the least of which is their freshly baked bread and pastries, including a showstopping sesame sourdough baguette, various sourdough loaves (the olive is special), and an exceptional tahini croissant. Then there’s the legendary sandwich lineup. The epic brisket butcher sandwich gloriously packs a heaping portion of tender, smoked brisket inside an equally glorious baguette, served alongside a rich natural jus so good you’ll want to drink the remainder. The majestic croque madame is built on sourdough with house-cured ham, oozing with mornay sauce and a perfectly runny yolk that satisfies any craving for pure decadence. Even the tuna conserva sandwich—layered on sourdough with olive tapenade, fresh sprouts, pickled cucumbers, and roasted peppers—is executed at a level that puts other tuna conservas to shame. We could keep going, but we’ll leave you with this: you can also build your own custom fish or meat sandwich with any of their freshly baked breads or bagels, excellent spreads (I love the scallion labneh), and house-smoked and cured meats and fish (opt for the beet gravlax when it's available). Other standouts include the salmon burger, chicken and ricotta dumpling soup, and pepperoni and olive flatbread. A word to the wise: if anything in the glass cold case catches your eye, order it on the spot before the person behind you claims it. Gjusta certainly ain’t cheap and it’s most definitely a scene, but damn if it isn’t delicious and worth all the hubbub.