Holy Basil - Santa Monica

Chefs Wedchayan "Deau" Arpapornnopparat and Tongkamal "Joy" Yuon can’t-stop-won’t-stop expanding their famous DTLA window Holy Basil. First came Atwater Village. Now they're bringing authentic street-style Thai food made with hyper-local ingredients to a part of town that could use more of it—and boy, do they already have a devoted following of Westsiders. 

The vibe: Busy, bright, and boisterous. Communal tables and little-to-no separation (save for counter seating) between the dining room and open kitchen, where flames from the wok fly high every few minutes, is part of the thrill. With approximately 30 seats (a handful of which are at the counter), the house packs an eclectic crowd—double-dates trading notes on sitters, actors running lines, a group of girlfriends dropping one-liners worthy of Overheard LA. Outdoor seating is more family-friendly and far quieter—sure to be desirable in the summer months. Hidden among the custom tile-work designed by Deau himself—graphic icons and childhood images from his upbringing—there's even an easter egg referencing the infamous broken window at the original Downtown location.

The food: The menu is ever-evolving, built around what's fresh, sustainable, and in season—and there isn't a single dud on it. Right now (early March), that's Baja scallops, which get an aguachile treatment. Or a crackling whole fried sea bream swimming in a tangy, citrusy fish sauce. A crisp, acid-forward Thai rendition of a Caesar comes with generous amounts of Parmesan and pickled onions, dotted with four white anchovies (ration them across bites accordingly). There's a reason the signature Bangkok wok-fried jasberry fried rice loaded with dungeness crab and "holy" seasoning blend is ordered by every table, but don't overlook the braised beef shank with paccheri noodles in zesty, nutty and creamy curry. It deserves a moment of meditation.

The drink: Joy's non-alcoholic program is a good excuse to skip the booze—think hibiscus agave oolong, thoughtfully concocted and not at all overly sweet like many non-alcoholic beverages around town. A few beers and a lone glass of wine (a stunning chilled nebbiolo on my visit) round out the ABV options. 

Time Out tip: The coconut-infused panna cotta eats like a rice pudding meets crème brûlée and is the perfect-sized dessert for someone who needs to satisfy their sweet tooth without overdoing it.