Irori Sushi

This Marina del Rey strip mall haunt with tinted windows has mysteriously flown under the radar, despite being around for nearly 20 years. Once you find it, you get why it's gatekept. It's a shoes-off, sit-on-the-floor situation, though sunken tables mean your legs won't cramp. Don't judge this sushi joint by its no-frills aesthetic or its laminated, spiral-bound, picture-filled menu—Irori is serious when it comes to raw fish. The sushi bar (also sunken) features the only chairs with backs in the restaurant, and it's my favorite place to watch the chefs at work—a meditation in precision—as they prepare sashimi, nigiri, rolls and temaki. Heads up: they will watch you too and enjoy every bite with you. Hot plates hit just as hard, namely the shrimp shumai, wagyu gyoza and hamachi kama. Arrive well into the day and items on the specials board will likely be crossed off, especially Hokkaido uni or sumi ika (cuttlefish). The options here are plentiful, regardless, from ocean trout topped with olive pearls and truffle oil to kamasu (barracuda) to ishigakidai (spotted knifejaws), which has the subtlest taste of uni (since that's what knifejaws eat). Best of all, the omakase menu changes daily and starts at $100, which is an incredible bang for your buck, as is the $32 sushi lunch combo.