Koko's

Chef-owner Elie Janesian, who ran a falafel stand in Aleppo, Syria, and worked as a jeweler after immigrating to LA, now runs this Middle Eastern restaurant with wife Talin and daughter Karen in a Lake Balboa strip mall. The restaurant, which dates back to 1996, features tan walls, white tablecloths and pastel green chairs. Koko’s Eggplant Kebab ($14) is particularly impressive, with alternating layers of smoky eggplant and minced meat (70% beef chuck and 30% lamb ribs). Two kebabs come with grilled pita, onion salad, tomato, jasmine rice and a vegetable plate that includes raw radish, jalapeño and an array of pickled vegetables: cabbage, cucumber and hot pink turnips.