Lodge Bread Beverly Hills

Though Or Amsalam first began Lodge Bread Co. as a pop-up bakery in a backyard, his naturally leavened breads have earned not one but two James Beard Award nominations. Recognition from one of the highest honors in the American food world is fantastic for any chef, but it’s even more meaningful for a shop like Lodge Bread Co., which serves incredibly simple fare built on the foundation of their excellent bread. Expanding quickly from their Culver City location— frequently beset with lines out the door—to spots in Woodland Hills and Beverly Hills, the restaurant’s formula is simple: Make seven or eight kinds of bread that are so excellent people want to come buy salads, brunch plates, and toasts, and take a loaf to go to attempt their own recreations at home. 

At the Beverly Hills location, the newest iteration before a Pasadena cafe opens later this year, the Big Breakfast is a welcome diner-sized plate in a neighborhood known for small servings. A large slab of bread, two eggs, greens, protein of your choice (bacon or sausage) and roasted fingerling potatoes may be simple; there’s a dish like this on most brunch menus in the city. But the Nueske bacon, “the best bacon you can buy,” Amsalam says, carefully-sourced eggs, and their coveted bread make it a knockout. A whole litany of made-to-order sweet baked goods lines the shelves every morning, but when they’re gone, they’re gone—including a cinnamon roll that’s literally the same size as the 10-inch plate it comes on.

With no dinner service in sight, the all-day menu works so well because it can be all things to all people. Classic sandwiches like egg salad with Dijon aioli on fresh-baked sourdough, jambon beurre on house-made baguette, or a breakfast sandwich on house-made brioche can satisfy different needs at any time of day. Salads, shakshuka, baked eggs, savory and sweet toasts, and a full coffee menu mean everything from breakfast for lunch to early-morning savory pick-me-ups is possible. 

My favorite, the turkey pesto on feathery, crispy focaccia, is an ideal lunch order, but from the 30-odd menu items, there’s almost nothing I won’t be thrilled to nosh on. Pick up a pitch-perfect BLT, an impressive veggie sammie with sprouts and pepper aioli, or a slab of ricotta toast and jam to get a sense of the cafe’s formidable range; take a loaf home to see what excellent bread might inspire you to make on your end.

The vibe: The platonic ideal of a Los Angeles cafe, with bread, pastries, and unbeatable sandwiches

The food: Timeless daytime fare that feels at once contemporary and old school

The drink: Coffees, teas, and non-alcoholic sodas are made-to-order or available in a grab-and-go cooler next to the counter 

Time Out tip: The Culver City location just started making fresh pita, available as a sandwich with cauliflower and greens or perfect to take home with a side of hummus or egg salad