Marvito

Moving into the historic Harper Avenue space that housed the iconic Mexican time capsule Gardens of Taxco for nearly five decades, this spin-off from the team behind the French-tinged bistro Marvin is a masterclass in nostalgic dining. Marvito owner Max Marder and chef Ricky Moreno have engineered a restaurant that rejects the stuffy pretension often found in West Hollywood. Boasting a menu of elevated Mexican-American classics and a killer agave program, it’s the ultimate destination for a deeply satisfying night out.

The vibe: Rustic, cinematic, and unapologetically retro. Billed as a psychedelic honky-tonk by Marder, the dining room is decked out with 1970s wood paneling, amber-glass pendant lamps, and snug, black-tufted leather booths. The energy is fueled by an audiophile-grade MacIntosh amplifier blasting a vinyl soundtrack heavy on classic rock like Steely Dan and Led Zeppelin. It feels less like a trendy L.A. hotspot and more like a beloved rowdy neighborhood dive bar, which just so happens to serve solid food.

The food: The kitchen takes familiar comfort dishes and executes them with serious precision. You’ll have to resist ordering endless rounds of their delightfully messy crispy beef tacos and the shrimp tacos, which are slathered with salsa and avocado. The menu packs a few wildcards, most notably, a spectacular double-patty smashburger. For larger appetites, the barbecue baby-back ribs dripping in an oh-so-tangy borracha sauce are sublime for sharing.

The drink: The bar relies on a massive, highly curated selection of small-batch, additive-free tequilas and turns its nose up at nasty pre-made sour mixes. For mezcal lovers, the Semi-Mojo is a must-order, blending the smoky richness of mezcal with bright passionfruit and a savory kick from jerk seasoning. Bad Sneakers is a savvy, clarified take on a piña colada finished with a lush coconut-pineapple foam.

Time Out tip: Keep this spot bookmarked for late-night cravings. In an area of town where kitchens often close early, Marvito serves its full menu until midnight, seven days a week. Also! An automatic 20 percent gratuity is added to every bill, regardless of party size.