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  • Restaurants
  • Beverly Hills
  • price 3 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. Matū
    Photograph: Courtesy Virtually Here Studios
  2. Matū
    Photograph: Courtesy The Ingalls
  3. Matū
    Photograph: Courtesy the Ingalls
  4. Matū
    Photograph: Courtesy Virtually Here Studios
  5. Matū
    Photograph: Courtesy Virtually Here Studios
  6. Matū
    Photograph: Courtesy the Ingalls

Time Out says

4 out of 5 stars

Matū is a full-knee-bend genuflection to some of the finest beef you’ll find anywhere in the city, and best explored with the great value Wagyu Dinner.

The daily-changing iterations of beef at Matū are prepared with such exemplary execution that Beverly Hills may no longer be that oft-derided (by me, at least) dining area of L.A.

The restaurant comes to us from the brain box of about a half-dozen restaurateurs and chefs, including Sugarfish cofounder Jerry Greenberg. Let’s concentrate, though, on First Light Farms, which provides grass-fed beef from New Zealand that’s well-marbled without being cloying. Chef Scott Linder and his exemplary team in the open kitchen then serve it “warm red”—around medium rare, which is enough to break the marbling down and to release an almost natural nuttiness to the beef. To do this on a consistent basis takes genuine kitchen skills, and there was very little in the whole meal that came out of the kitchen anything other than perfectly prepared.

There’s a full à la carte menu, but the best way to experience Matū is through the five-course Wagyu Dinner, which, at $78 per person, borders on the “how do they make any money off this?” level of excellent value for such a premium quality of beef.

My meal (the Wagyu Dinner selections rotate nightly) began with a small shot glass of bone broth, where the yuzu salt at the bottom of the bowl cut through the natural fattiness of the bones. Of the next (slightly too rapid) procession of dishes, perhaps the only disappointment was the tartare, which was prepared with Italian accompaniments of crumbled Parmesan cheese, a crisp extra virgin olive oil, black pepper and lemon juice. These additions, particularly the olive oil, were added just powerfully enough to cover up the taste of the hand-cut beef, so it became “protein with stuff on top.” The braised beef cheeks atop a smooth celeriac puree were much more successful, as were the two steaks, New York strip and rib-eye, which came well rested and seasoned with nothing more than salt and pepper (as a good steak should be). 

While I wouldn’t go to Matū for the vegetables and side orders alone, the team makes them very well. The yuzu sauce and slight heat in the baby iceberg with “Japanese” Caesar dressing provided just the right counterpoint to the fattiness of the Wagyu. And, as someone who has had too many “fries so bad they make my wife angry” experiences recently, whoever cooked the terrific beef tallow french fries with parsley may get a bequest from me in my will (this is not a legal statement). The two-item dessert menu is similarly not destination-worthy. The flourless chocolate cake with sea salt, however, did its job and gave a sweet ending to a particularly savory and hugely enjoyable meal.

Of the many restaurants I have visited recently, Matū was perhaps the greatest surprise. Yes, the service was very slightly rushed, and, with my critic’s hat firmly on, I could pick apart minor details on a couple of the dishes. And yet, the fact that I made a reservation to return the moment I came out, should speak volumes. 

I’ll be back.


Matū is like a hybrid of a classic American steakhouse—with its dim lighting, wood décor and sparsely lit tables—and one of the equally dark Japanese cocktail bars that are all too familiar an ending point for every night I spend in Tokyo. Both are good things.


There are things on the menu at Matū other than beef, like well-prepared seafood, vegetables and salad. But if you aren’t here to eat the bovine, the whole point of the place, then you’ll probably feel like a stranger at a party watching miserably as everyone else enjoys themselves (particularly the Wagyu Dinner).


The wine list is, to be honest, a bit dreary. The by-the-glass section is limited, and the full list is priced up and yawn inducing. Next time, BYOB ($40 corkage fee per bottle) or stick to well-made cocktails.


The bar area of Matū seems to be under-utilized by diners. As a person who loves eating solo at bars, this could become a regular walk-in for me.

Written by
Simon Majumdar


239 S Beverly Dr
Ste 100
Beverly Hills
Opening hours:
Daily 5:30–10pm
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