Ohana Superette

You know what they say: good things come to those who wait. That's true for Ohana Superette fans who had a poke-shaped hole in their heart after the concept (originally housed inside sandwich shop Black Hogg) shut down during the pandemic. Well, after a five-year hiatus, husband-and-wife team Eric and Miriam Park resurrected the Silver Lake poke shop in its own dedicated space—right next door to their cafe Bodega Park—and our hearts (and bellies) are full of poke once again. The Parks have a standing annual family tradition: Christmas in Hawaii. It's no wonder, then, that their poke shop is an homage to the Hawaiian value of family (which is what "ohana" translates to). Here, yellowfin and bigeye tuna are flown three to four days a week from Honolulu (they also use local fishermen to supplement when necessary), and poke is made to order. The ahi gets a very traditional, very minimal treatment. Exhibit A: alaea (red volcanic sea salt), shiso, green and white onion, and sesame let the fish do the talking. It’s a wonderfully herbal alternative to classic shoyu, though we have no notes on the classic, either. Folks who like their poke hot will delight in the Thai chili ginger or the spicy mayo blend with Sriracha and masago. Neither is too overpowering. Chilled sweet white shrimp with Thai chili and cilantro is a delightful underdog—for when you've had too much tuna, if that's even possible. Bowls come in regular and large sizes, with rice and your choice of two banchan. About the rice… Ohana uses premium Tamanishiki short-grain rice (a blend of Koshihikari and Yumegokochi). Soft, sweet, and slightly sticky, it’s the perfect base for poke, plus the many banchan options. Think ponzu glass noodles with cabbage and carrots; a straightforward seaweed salad; piquant kimchi cucumber; addictive crab mac; oiji pickles; and sweet-and-spicy red beets. It's a tough choice considering they are all fantastic. On your way out, grab a musubi for later snacking—and don't skip the watermelon-mint agua fresca.