Ortolan (CLOSED)

The chemistry-set cooking style has calmed down a little since this upscale eatery opened in 2005, but chef Christophe Emé is still experimenting; certainly, no one else in town is serving crayfish with rabbit meatballs, seared escargot or monkfish cooked on hot stones. The champagne cart is appealing, but the servers often forget to mention that the high-end vintages can cost as much as $25 a glass.