Pho Hien Mai

If you ever longed for a Vietnamese mom to tell you how to eat your pho, look no further: Pho Hien Mai, hidden in a rickety strip mall off of Garvey Avenue, is commandeered with absolute authority by its owner. She asks all newcomers, "You here for pho?" And while there is a menu that she'll flash before you, there are really only two choices: #1 or #2 (big or small). As the soup appears, you can nearly hear George Clinton grooving "We've got the funk," because this broth is the deepest, gamiest, smokiest, almost livery-est broth around, nearly clear, with springy noodles and some of the tastiest beef balls to be found. Be sure to get a taste before she squirts the hoison sauce into your bowl.