Pizzeria Sei Palms

Pizzeria Sei's original Pico-Robertson shop is now Sei Pizza Bar, and Pizzeria Sei Palms is the bigger and, quite frankly, better outfit from husband-and-wife partners in life and pizza, William Joo and Jennifer So. It's the evolution of the Tokyo-style Neapolitan pizzeria that took L.A. by storm—now with an expanded kitchen, menu and even more palate-bending pies. Here, the pies transcend the Neapolitan style that made Pizzeria Sei one of the city's best pizzerias, a reminder that to evolve, you have to change. Joo's career is proof, having worked in the kitchens of Providence, Ronan, and Pizzana before venturing out on his own. His maturation shows in the dough of his signature Neapolitan, now slightly lighter.

The Sei Margherita adds buffalo mozzarella and just a bit more tanginess than the traditional Margherita. But it's the new pizza styles—fried montanara and thin, crispy Roman-style scrocchiarella, both of which Joo spent serious time perfecting—that make Pizzeria Sei among the most exalted pizza experiences one can have. The 4 Culture Diavola, which Pizzeria Sei opened with and is rumored to be swapped out sometime this fall, should be at the top of your to-eat list. On it: gochujang romesco, bits of maple-candied guanciale, 15-year-aged balsamic, stracciatella, basil, and thinly sliced Iberico chorizo. A beautiful pie, both visually and in execution, it's a rainbow of flavors in perfect balance—yet each of the five basic tastes still gets to shine.

The current (though not for long) scrocchiarella pie—Cali Margherita—is basically a bruschetta pizza. Think bright, beautifully seasoned tomatoes alongside stracciatella on thin, crackly crust, finished with basil and a dusting of manchego. Then there’s the rotating Riviera, a fried-then-baked montanara pie with a light, crisp base and a pillowy center, ideal for holding heavier, unexpected toppings—namely heaping amounts of tuna conserva. It's not a red pie. It's not a white pie. It's a squid ink, salsa verde, aioli and caramelized onion jam pie, finished with lemon zest and copious amounts of dill. So, mostly a green pie? Who cares, you need it. Pizza aside, creamy, crunchy, sweet corn croquettes burst with truffle and fior di latte. They hit the appetizer spot and set you up for all the salt and acid of the pies to come. Iberico meatballs stand out in a sea of meatballs—save the bubbly, piquant tomato sauce for your Neapolitan crust. There's also a beautiful gem-and-herb salad with white miso and the appropriate amount of shallots every salad should have (a lot). For a sweet finish, do not miss the tiramisu parfait layered with mascarpone, citrus, and housemade gelato. Chef Joo's really excited about the gelato machine he got, and it shows in spades. 

Dining in is the only way to enjoy Pizzeria Sei, as this operation doesn't offer takeout (head to Sei Pizza Bar for that). And be warned: securing a reservation takes diligence—they open a week in advance, at noon daily—so set a reminder. Walk-ins can expect to wait a couple of hours or more.