San Damián

A marisquería is exactly what Abbot Kinney has been missing since always. Enter Enrique Olvera’s mariscos-forward follow-up to Damian on the Westside. You may have been here when it was Atla, Olvera's unfussy Mexican spot from the same group behind Pujol in Mexico City and Cosme in New York. San Damián is his ode to the seafood bounty of the Pacific. Sure, you'll find potato flautas, pollo frito and carne asada on the menu, but you'd be remiss not to make it a full-on mariscos outing when there are bright queen clams, lip-smacking poached shrimp aguachile, and vermilion rockfish ceviche crowned with uni to choose from. There's also tuna or crab tostada and octopus cocktail—and that's just the starters. As for mains, the head-on prawns taste of ocean and garlic in the best way. Olvera has reinvented al pastor yet again—this time swapping the duck you'd get at Damian for a gorgeous achiote-glazed kanpachi fillet that—cliche oncoming—melts in your mouth. Take the first bite unadulterated, then layer it onto a fresh tortilla with a spread of pineapple butter underneath and thinly sliced pineapple on top. My only complaint is that there isn't more of it (I could easily put away a serving solo). The palo santo tepache is perfect for the new-age Venice crowd that's strongly represented here. If you want a drink drink but keep it healthy-ish, the carrot-cucumber-poblano mezcalita is as vegetal as it is spicy. When it comes to dessert, the clear winner is strawberries and (chantilly) cream.