Soko at the Fairmont Miramar

Nearly 2,000 years ago, well before refrigeration, Japanese fisherfolk preserved their catch by wrapping it in fermented rice and salt and stashing it in darkened storerooms. This proto-sushi was called narezushi. "Soko" means "storeroom" in Japanese, which is exactly what this eight-seat sushi bar tucked away in the lobby of the super swank Fairmont Miramar used to be. That is, before Masa Shimakawa, a Hokkaido native and veteran sushi chef (formerly of Nomi at the Park Hyatt Chicago and ONYX at the Four Seasons Westlake Village), transformed the property's storage closet into a shrine for fish. As a diver and avid fisherman, it's no wonder Shimakawa's reverence for undersea creatures is alive and well in every bite. Simply watching him slice into flesh and handle rice is a treat, as is the chef's choice omakase ($185 for six courses or $160 for five). On a recent visit, the five-course delighted with a firefly squid and Maine lobster alongside earthy white asparagus, crisp watermelon radish and a bright tosa-zu gelee. The starter does what a starter should—waking up the palate for what follows: an unadulterated tuna trio of akami, chu-toro and o-toro alongside a garden of shiso and other herbs. The protein party continues with a hot mid-course of exquisitely prepared Miyazaki A5 wagyu and black cod alongside pickled veggies. The five-course omakase rounds things out with five pieces of seasonal (often off-menu) nigiri, miso soup and dessert. If you get lucky, there might just be ankimo crème brûlée when you visit. Nigiri purists can opt for a 12-piece omakase for $120. Distinct sake and wine pairings are on offer to amplify the various omakases—I particularly enjoyed the albariño. À la carte offerings include all the usual suspects, plus daily off-menu specials—ask about the iwashi, or whatever just came in. Post-meal, take a walk in Palisades Park to reflect on the humble origins of sushi while basking in one of the best sunsets in town.