The Brothers Sushi Beverly Hills

What is it: The beloved Woodland Hills sushi gem’s Beverly Hills expansion, giving chef Moriyuki “Mori” Kanamaru (Jinpachi, Asanebo), now a partner, a more expansive, proper stage for omakase.

Why we love it: Sit at the 14-seat counter and you might notice a bobblehead peering at you from behind the marble. It’s a replica of Kanamaru, keeping watch as guests take in his creations. Kanamaru is a bit like an orchestra conductor: His eyes are everywhere, his hands move in mysteriously harmonious and intuitive ways, and his words are few but deliberate. Prior to joining Brothers Sushi, he spent many years at Jinpachi and Asanebo. Solo diners will have a lot of fun here, reveling in the ceremony of his nigiri-making. The $160 omakase is quite the deal for the amount of food and the quality of the fish. You get a handful of appetizers, eight pieces of nigiri, miso soup and dessert. On my visit, I particularly enjoyed the mozuku (a silky Okinawan seaweed) in tangy vinegar with sweet raw shiro ebi (Toyama Bay white shrimp); salmon sashimi with ice plant and pickled tomatoes; Mori salad with seared scallop and truffle; and a theatrical and fragrant smoked kanpachi sashimi served under a glass cloche to trap the smoke. The nigiri mixes dry-aged and classic cuts, running the gamut from king salmon and toro to shima aji and uni, some with unexpected touches like dill. Should you go the à la carte route, several dishes are exclusive to this location, from warayaki-smoked chutoro sashimi to more fusion-y fare like an A5 wagyu teriyaki slider and a wagyu sando.

Time Out tip: Pair your meal with the Brothers x Daina sake (a collaboration with Kikunosato Shuzo). It’s crisp, dry, viscous and goes great with dry-aged fish.