Tijuanazo

Con todo? At East L.A.’s Tijuanazo, the answer should always be yes. Founded by L.A. culinary veteran Antonio Esquivel, Tijuanazo serves outstanding adobada, asada, chorizo and various types of offal, with specific house-designed salsa combinations tailored to each cut of meat. The adobada (a.k.a. al pastor) runs on the drier and more heavily spiced side compared to others I’ve had, a characteristic that pairs surprisingly well with the cilantro crema and a sliver of pineapple. Each offal cut is cooked to perfection, while the housemade chorizo offers heft and warmth in every bite. There are a half-dozen outstanding Tijuana-style taco specialists in L.A., most of which operate as streetside stands, but this sleeker brick-and-mortar competes with the very best—and in my opinion, definitely wins out over citywide favorites like Angel’s and Avenue 26. If you love cheese, order one of the fantasmas ($6.25 to $7.25). This deconstructed taco swaps a tortilla for a crispy, well-griddled slab of queso fresco, tops the whole shebang with a tostada and even throws in a hearty side of pinto beans.