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Now known the world over as one of the most inspired—and perhaps bizarre—tasting menus ($395) ever conceived, Jordan Kahn’s otherworldly Vespertine has not only returned, it’s regained both of its Michelin stars. The part sci-fi dreamscape, part fine-dining theatrics experience takes place in a wavy obelisk in Culver City, just across the street from the chef’s casual daytime spot, Destroyer. Unlike pre-pandemic Vespertine, Kahn’s dishes now lean more primordial than futuristic, with ingredients made with fungi and plants that date back to the Cambrian Period and other touches that hark back to the dawn of human civilization.