Wadatsumi by Harikawa

In Japan, entire issues of food magazines and street festivals are devoted to varieties and preparations of rice. For the North American rice fetishist, there’s Torafuku, which offers kamado rice, prepared in a special 500-pound iron pot balanced over an earthenware oven in a special, designated section of the kitchen. Dishes that take advantage of the rice include ochazuke, a light, flavorful soup with toppings like grilled salmon, pickled plum or spicy cod roe ($6-$7).