Time Out says
If you're looking for surf, this is the place to find it. This beach is known worldwide as one of the best surf spots—nearly every big-name surf champion has ridden the waves here. A fairly large (and free) parking lot will put you on one of two paths, to either the southern point or the beach just north of the break. It's a point break here with a long right, and because there's such easy access, it can get pretty crowded on good days. If you're looking to lounge on the sand, this is probably not your spot, but if you want to watch some surfers do their thing—or get in the water yourself—there's no better place.