“Charles James: Beyond Fashion”

The inaugural exhibit at the revamped Anna Wintour Costume Center showcases the work and creative process of the 20th-century couturier. James was born in London, came to New York by way of Paris and—with not a lick of formal training—set up shop on both sides of the pond, styling architecturally inspired gowns for the likes of Gypsy Rose Lee and other trendsetting socialites. Examine his sketches, swatches and pattern pieces, then lust after his wrap-over trousers, ribbon capes, figure-eight skirts and body-hugging sheaths.