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An enoteca on a Village strip known for discount footwear transcends its surroundings with low lighting, tiny wooden tables and great service. An expertly curated wine list rotates weekly, and the 18 wines by the glass might include a full-bodied Cotes de Bourg Bordeaux. Bottled suds and basic cocktails (the owners are former Union Square Cafe barkeeps) are on offer for nonvinophiles.