Artisanal

The bar area at this soaring, brasserie-style eatery is packed at dinner when fondue-craving hordes await their tables. But at other times, this is a great place to sample the world’s great curds, including pairing flights of wines with three cheeses. There are 150-plus wines by the glass, and 250 or so cheeses–enough permutations that you can forever swear off chardonnay and Brie.