This standard-bearing cocktail parlor from mixology matriarch Julie Reiner expresses its Victorian bent in intricate tile work, curved leather booths, marble tables, vintage sofas and a functioning fireplace. The centerpiece is the 19th-century mahogany bar, where vest-clad barkeeps stir and shake throwback potions, handily defined in the novel-like menu. Choose among regal crystal bowls of punch or finely wrought drinks, both classic and new. Call for an order of house chips fried in duck fat, or a round of small plates like assosted cheeses from neighborhood fromagerie Stinky Bklyn or fresh East Coast oysters to keep you moored.
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