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With its long cherry-stained bar and list of 100 French wines (30 by the glass), it would be a mistake to visit this UES Provençal spot only for its food. The wine selection is organized by region, with a small, disdainful section reserved for les autres pays. Warm decor, including exposed-brick walls and colorful tiles, is a charming backdrop for unwinding with a glass of earthy 2003 Châteauneuf-Du-Pape .