Folk

It's hard to imagine a less likely location for a vibey cocktail bar than this corner of 6th Avenue in South Slope. The (excellent) pizza place across the street has an almost-exclusively Rat Pack soundtrack, the ramen place next door looks a tad lost, the bodega at kitty-corner pretends to zero polish. But where one would expect a neighborhood joint to play it safe—TV, a few craft beers, fried bits in baskets—Folk makes a bold play: upmarket cocktails and Indian-ish small plates that would be at home on the Lower East Side or Williamsburg.

Married chef/owner/designer couple Jay Kumar and Daria Greene were clearly dreaming big when they landed in this small space. Folk is little sister to 7th Avenue's excellent Lore. Folk, Lore. Get it? I didn't; it had to be pointed out to me. The room is cozy, lowkey, uncluttered—it’s a strong choice for a date. Confidence carries from concept through design. Bespoke craftsmanship is everywhere: tile mosaic at the threshold, the impressive bar—a single, seamless slab of white marble evidently cut for this buildout. Running parallel, a series of tables in matching marble is attended by custom bench seating. Taken together, it’s a planted flag. 

The cocktail menu is approachable with plenty of inventive flourishes and fun touches. There are three negronis on draft, but the à la minute cocktails are what this place is really selling. The Vale of Cashmere (gin, Empirical Soka, celery, yogurt, lime) plays tartness against floral notes. The Mangolorean (rum, lime, pineapple, curried coconut cream) is tiki-adjacent, dessert-like and pleasingly boozy. The Luz y Laro (reposado, hopped calamansi, jasmine pearl tea, soda) is a riff on dive bar favorites, the paloma and a beer/shot combo; it’s boozy but not overwhelmingly so, balanced, drinkable in that “another round” dive bar way. 

The food menu follows suit, offering creativity in recognizable forms. The list says "Bites," but that undersells the fact that you can very much eat dinner here. The Mumbai pot pie with chicken tikka is warming and satisfying, with a flaky crust and savory chunks of chicken. Masala latkes with oyster mushroom and caviar are well-seasoned and more interesting than a standard latke. Biryani arancini with cashew korma and cauliflower are small but flavorful, punching well above their size with textural contrast. Everything on the menu sounds appealing, which makes choosing difficult and a return visit likely.

The staff is friendly, gracious, attuned to the rhythms of a full room, including the outside seating. Prices are in line with comparable spots in hipper neighborhoods, and they're easily justified. Folk succeeds on its own terms. It may be poised on an edge, but it feels firmly planted–a strong enough handhold to make a 20-30 train ride worthwhile.