Lei brings a rare intimacy to bustling Doyers Street. The made-for-date-night space, from Annie Shi (beverage director at Soho’s beloved King) and Patty Lee (formerly of Mission Chinese), feels both new and totally timeless—like a neighborhood fave that’s been there all along. The wine list is deep and wide (it’s over 25 pages), but the short, tight menu is made to match it. Soy-braised short ribs, sticky with strawberry jam; crispy fried whiting; and flaky shao bing cut with cold butter make it the sort of place where a “quick glass” can easily turn into an entire evening.
The vibe: A cozy hideaway where things can quickly turn romantic, Lei has just 24 seats (if it’s crowded, you can always stand while you munch on your siu mai), a staggering wine list and flickering candles.
The food: The small plates here punch well above their weight, but you’ll also be satisfied if grabbing drinks turns into grabbing dinner. Go for the cat’s ear noodles, which are hand-rolled and served covered in herbs.
The drink: A twenty-plus-page wine list featuring Chinese producers and tons of easy-drinkers.
Time Out tip: Forget scrolling the wine list like it’s homework—just tell the sommelier what you’re in the mood for, then let them take the wheel. Odds are you’ll end up with a bottle you’ll still be thinking about tomorrow.