Brooklyn isn't short on nautically themed watering holes tarted up with garish fishnet decor, but this beer-focused newcomer takes subtler cues from the sea. Save a clubby blue-lit fish tank behind the bar, the place is tastefully rigged with starry pinhole light fixtures, an underwater mural and stools crafted from massive soldered chains. The 20 drafts, too, are smart and unpretentious, balancing local craft darlings like Greenport Harbor—try the smooth Black Duck Porter ($5)—with no-frills classics fit for a longshoreman (Guinness, MGD). Just don't expect much seafood: Beyond a buttery whole-belly clam roll ($11), the menu centers on well-executed, cheap comfort food. Tuck into the crispy pork-schnitzel sandwich ($6.50), or an excellent burger made with a freshly ground blend of brisket, chuck and short rib; the thin patty and satisfying squelch may remind you of Shake Shack, as will the $5.50 price tag.