Terroir Tribeca

Terroir Tribeca struts into the wine bar conversation like a tatted-up punk rock frontman taking the stage only to belt "Ave Maria." From eccentric sommelier‑showman Paul Grieco, this place is proof that taking wine—especially Riesling—seriously doesn’t mean taking oneself too seriously. Here, reverence and irreverence are given equal footing, which is refreshing, different, and fun.

The room itself is decidedly classy but clearly celebrates that which is not, almost like a bottle of Romanee-Conti being sipped with a silly straw. It’s a nicely appointed room with a handsome bar, tended by friendly folks who know their stuff and are happy to help. The bottles against the brick wall and kitschy fridge-magnet signage give dive bar energy. This isn’t a hushed cathedral of self-seriousness; you feel like you’re allowed to have fun here—and should.

Nowhere is the philosophy more in evidence than in the food. Ditching courtliness in favor of comfiness, a fancy spread of cheese, tinned fish, and charcuterie happily rubs elbows with pigs in a blanket, a smash burger, and fish tacos. And two happy hours are in effect every day during which you’ll find discounts on both oysters and wine.

The wine list is positively sprawling—crossing styles, regions and price tags from affordability to affluence. The thing reads like a batshit travelogue, peppered with asides that reward the curious. It’s good fun just to peruse the list, even if you’re entirely wine-naive. For further reading, Grieco has penned a manifesto that somehow connects wine to… well, several things.
And lest you think that all of this fun precludes class, you’ll find that Grieco can go toe to toe with the best and of them; he’s gotten ahold of some rare, coveted bottles, the prices of which are listed in the thousands.

If you think you know what a wine bar should be, Terroir will gently pry that notion from your hand and replace it with a glass of riEsLiNG! The bottom line is this: wine need not be the exclusive province of pomposity and snobbery because it is and has always been, first and foremost, a vehicle for pleasure.