Ramos gin fizz at King
The cardio-intensive preparation of this regal New Orleans libation is legendary—early reports called for 10 to 12 minutes of vigorous shaking, a daunting task even for the most seasoned bar hands. Its originator, Henry C. Ramos—who showcased it first at the Imperial Cabinet Saloon around 1888, and later at the Stag Saloon—was said to employ a crew of shakerboys, who took turns shaking the mixture of egg white, dry gin, milk or cream, sugar, lemon and lime juices, and orange flower water, before it was topped off with a seltzer. Today, many gin joints adhere to the prolonged shaking tradition, but as it turns out, it’s completely unnecessary. At King, the barkeeps shake the drink with a handful of ice and the spring of a cocktail strainer, which acts like a whisk, for about 30 seconds. Instead of topping the mixture with seltzer, they pour it over the carbonated water, so that the drink, like lemon meringue pie in a collins glass, bubbles up with a tall, fleecy head. 5 King St at Sixth Ave (212-255-0700). $12.