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The Four Horsemen

Bars, Wine bars Williamsburg
4 out of 5 stars
4 out of 5 stars
(1user review)
 (Liz Clayman)
1/4
Liz ClaymanThe Four Horsemen
 (Liz Clayman)
2/4
Liz ClaymanThe Four Horsemen
 (Janelle Jones)
3/4
Janelle JonesPork sausage at The Four Horsemen
 (Janelle Jones)
4/4
Janelle JonesBeef tartare at The Four Horsemen

Walk into James Murphy’s Scandinavian-fitted watering hole and chuckle about how just a decade ago, the former LCD Soundsystem frontman was tearing up downtown with genre-blurring rock. The reformed bandleader has since sung his final note with the dance-punk darlings, and his 40-seat vino den—a joint endeavor with his wife, Christina Topsøe, partner Randy Moon and wine consultant Justin Chearno—trades that edge for laid-back elegance with minimalist woods and soft smiles. A focused small-plates menu by ex-Franny’s chef Nick Curtola and wine curations by Chearno and general manager Amanda McMillan cater to an easygoing, thick-frames-sporting crowd.

ORDER THIS: Though there are just 13 by-the-glass varieties listed on the menu at any given time, intrepid oenophiles and first-timers alike can explore one of the city’s most comprehensive selections of 250 natural and biodynamic wines. Need-to-taste pours include a subtle cream-hued Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Orthogneiss from Domaine de l’Ecu ($13) and a full-bodied Bois-Rouge cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon blend from Domaine Mosse ($13). Not to be overlooked, beer drinkers can find rare Brooklyn Brewery suds including the Galahad ($26) and a bespoke draft called the Shallows ($6).

GOOD FOR: A wind-down glass of wine and pair-as-you-please snacks. Sneaker-wearing server-somms will rattle off informal tasting notes pointing you in the right direction, but take all the liberties you want with Curtola’s vegetable-heavy offerings, the most memorable of which is summer peas blanketed in shaved ricotta salata and Calabrian chile ($14) that marries nicely with a California-sourced Les Lunes chardonnay and Colombard blend ($14). Move on to fuller-bodied reds as you tuck into meatier plates, like fermented sausage atop crème fraîche ($16) or beef meatballs floating in duck broth ($22).

THE CLINCHER: You’re sipping wine in Murphy’s house, and it certainly feels like home. Cedar ceiling slats and decorative burlap sacks double as acoustics-enhancing sound absorbers for a crowd-pleasing playlist of equal parts Van Morrison and Kate Bush. Warmly personalized touches—cutlery from Murphy and Topsøe’s wedding, eucalyptus-scented bath towels—invite you to stay for another glass. If this is what the apocalypse looks like, sign us up.

By: Dan Q Dao

Posted:

Venue name: The Four Horsemen
Contact:
Address: 295 Grand St
Brooklyn
11211
Cross street: between Havemeyer and Roebling Sts
Opening hours: Daily 5:30–11pm
Transport: Subway: L to Bedford St, G to Metropolitan Ave; J,M,Z to Marcy St
Price: Average glass of wine: $11. AmEx, MC, V.
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Average User Rating

4 / 5

Rating Breakdown

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LiveReviews|1
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tastemaker

If you heard that someone from LCD Soundsystem opened a wine bar, I'm pretty sure you would not think it looked anything like The Four Horsemen does, but that means you'll be pleasantly surprised.


My date was about 20 minutes late and staff was so friendly and accommodating. They were also really helpful with navigating the extensive wine list, and we settled on a glass of the Pinot Noir and an orange wine. Both were great. We ordered a bunch of small plates, including the warm bread, which we were told to get. Pro tip: get it. I definitely want to come back and a cheese plate will be necessary.