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The Plaza’s restored, 102-year-old Oak Bar is a hit with status-hungry locals and thrill-seeking tourists. But for the shrewd New Yorkers who expect a good drink and service to match, the place can’t cut it. A lackluster Cherry Blossom, made with gin, lemon juice, cherry bitters and a brandied cherry, arrived severely undericed and without the promised fruit; the Apricot Sidecar was a one-dimensionally sweet libation dominated by apricot liqueur. At $18 a drink, one should expect something more than a nice view of the park, but the surest way to enjoy the Oak Bar might be by taking in the glorious decor over a glass of water. With ice, please.