This throwback cocktail spot joins classy joints like Hotel Delmano in shaping Williamsburg’s new breed of bar. Inside, cordial barkeeps craft spot-on drinks. The smoky Scottish Dew (Scotch with muddled cucumbers, orange bitters and maraschino liqueur) is distinctly vegetal, and the blood-hued Higgins’ sarsaparilla blends spicy ginger beer, club soda and amaro, with a dose of fruity red wine. Beers are well curated too: Fourteen $5 drafts include Troegs’ pleasingly caramel Hopback Amber. There are serviceable small plates, but you’d do well to fill your belly before you arrive.