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No kitsch, no trash, no pretense. This low-key two-room lair, all candlelit dark wood and exposed brick, is favored by those who prefer quiet conversation. A large chalkboard trumpets an extensive selection of mostly French wines by the glass—and Von’s barkeeps know their vino—but the bar also has a full liquor license. For fans of the deejaying arts, the cozy, semisecret basement—where top locals spin funk, disco, house, hip-hop and more—is the place to be.