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The inspiration for this bar’s name is a Chinese milk candy that owner Jim Chu ate as a child. Free samples of this treat sit in bowls on the bamboo bar in what was formerly Idlewild—his kitschy, airplane-themed bar. Chu’s tastes are clearly maturing: The space was converted into a slick, all-white room, and Chu added fancy cocktails and quality Asian-inflected nibbles, like shrimp wontons and tempura chicken.