Like a more observational Jiro Dreams of Sushi, Paul Lacoste’s kitchen-confidential documentary is the latest profile of a world-class restaurant and its handing over of the filial reins. Interspersed with pretty shots of the Southern French countryside, the film observes the Bras boys, père and fils, as they go about their daily business of food preparation, take a trip to their Japanese location to oversee the creation of a new dish and muse on the impending takeover by the middle-aged Sébastien, as his elderly father reluctantly contemplates retirement. Step Up to the Plate doesn’t skimp on the food-porn goods, but the dynamic between its two stoical subjects is too undercooked to truly resonate.
Follow Andrew Schenker on Twitter: @aschenker
