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Overthrow Hospitality is among the most moveable feasts in New York City, unafraid to rearrange its concepts and locations as though its swath of the East Village were a plant-based simulation, with restaurateur and 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist Ravi DeRossi at the controls.
Cadence, the vegan soul food restaurant that was among 2021’s best newcomers, moved from its tiny, gleaming jewel box space to bigger, brighter digs across the street in 2022. Avant Garden, which first opened in 2015, outgrew its original Seventh Street address and resettled on Avenue A last year. That locale had once been Overthrow’s Gin Palace, then Cienfuegos, and eventually Honeybee’s. And on Thursday, February 1, the hospitality group will make its mushroom-focused pop-up, & Beer, permanent—at least for the moment—under the name Third Kingdom at 27 East 7th Street. In a totally expected twist, its footprint was previously Overthrow's Proletariat, which moved next door.
Avant Garden’s Juan Pajarito, who also oversaw & Beer, is the chef. As before, the menu is a fungi affair. Opening items incorporate stemmed and densely-packed yellow enoki, flowing lion’s mane and bloomy maitake varieties factored into dumpling, ramen and enchilada preparations. A weekly changing forager’s corner might include chanterelles, and the featured ingredient also factors into desserts like the lava cake with rosemary and porcini mushroom ice cream and the candied shiitake and chocolate crumble. Prices were not yet available at press time.
Third Kingdom’s burgundy-hued spot seats 50 between its bar and banquettes. A mushroom aesthetic also spores throughout the decor. Beer and wine are among the beverage selections.
“Our intention with this and all of our concepts is to offer elevated plant-based cuisine in an inclusive environment that appeals to everyone,” DeRossi is quoted as saying in a press release, “whether they are vegan or not.” He was also nominated in the James Beard Awards’ Outstanding Restaurateur category in 2022.
Third Kingdom opens at 21 East 7th Street on Thursday, February 1.