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Recently, there was a bit of confusion happening on the corner of Kenmare and Lafayette Street in Nolita. Last week, a TikToker filmed the signage of Santo Taco rising in what housed the longstanding Mexican restaurant, La Esquina. Ending the video with the caption “La Esquina 2005-2025,” chaos ensued in the comment section with users stating, “OMG this is a crime against all of NYC” and “IS NOTHING SACRED.” But we are here to tell you not to worry: the subterranean restaurant and party spot is still alive and well as the owners leased out the street-level restaurant. The newest tenant, however, is a legend across the dining scenes of New York and the world.
As of yesterday, Santo Taco opened its doors and behind it all is Santiago Perez. While a bit of a behind-the-scenes character, Perez worked with Enrique Olvera for over ten years, becoming a founding partner of the Casamata Group. In fact, it was Perez who approach Olvera to open a restaurant in New York, leading to Cosme in Flatiron and ATLA in Noho. Looking to strike out on his own, Perez stepped down as CEO of the group. According to Eater NY, he still remains on good terms with Olvera and the group. Now with his first, he plans to carry forward his love for the places he calls home: his birthplace of Mexico City and New York City.
At the Nolita restaurant, there’s just a small ordering window that faces out onto the street. A tight operation in both restaurant size and offerings, there are only five tacos to be had at Santo Taco, all served on house-made, griddled tortillas. Ranging in price from $5.45 to $5.95, you can order the charcoal-grilled carne asada that rotates on a vertical spit; pork carnitas made with pork belly and ribs; seared chicken with a pineapple marinade; or the vegetarian shiitake and cremini mushroom taco with strips of squash blossom.
The most expensive is the steak trompo ($6.95), a thinly sliced cut featuring prime New York strip and sirloin that nearly covers the entire tortilla, which is sure to draw similarities to the ribeye cut at Williamsburg's Esse Taco, another offshoot from Perez and Olvera. And while there is no corn husk meringue for dessert, there is a little something sweet on the menu: a Mexican Hot Chocolate cookie, made custom by the makers of Breads Bakery.
Beyond that, there are a few drinks for refreshments, including agua frescas and Mexican sodas. Inside, there’s a small counter for salsa and a few red stools that look out onto the street. Speaking of, the windows will eventually open up to Kenmare Street when the weather inevitably gets nicer, and the restaurant has already set up a few metal tables and chairs for a streetside dine.
So does the same building now house two taco restaurants? Yes. But is the latest addition worth the visit? Also yes.